Journal

Notes from the kitchen

Jul 19, 2026

Pairing Notes: Why We Don’t Always Pick the ‘Correct’ Wine

The textbook pairing and the one we actually pour aren't always the same bottle.

Jul 19, 2026

On Sourcing: Why the Menu Changes Without Warning

No dish here is guaranteed to still be on the menu next month, including the ones people ask…

Jul 19, 2026

The Two-and-a-Half-Hour Problem

Nine courses, one seating, a hard stop before the next table arrives. How the timing actually works.

Jul 19, 2026

What Verjus Actually Is, and Why We’re Named for It

The sour juice of unripe wine grapes, used instead of vinegar. Here's what it does differently.

Jul 19, 2026

Why the Menu Has No Prices Next to the Dishes

One number for the whole sequence. Here's the reasoning, not just the policy.

Jul 19, 2026

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